Sunday, March 20, 2011

I is for Isolation

One of the reasons I haven't been posting much lately is I've felt really isolated. I don't want anyone to think I'm depressed over this, I'm not. I just haven't felt like I've found many of my kind of people here in S. Korea. So, I guess this post is really more about the fact that I miss the people I love to be around.

South Korea is a lovely country. Its countrymen are by and large generous, hospitable people. I find that they are stand offish with strangers and reluctant to befriend you or make commitments to you of time. This has made getting to know South Koreans a bit difficult. Thus, my pool of South Korean friends is limited to non-existent.

Then there is the population of foreigners here. They come from all areas of English speakers; America, Canada, England, Ireland, Scotland, South Africa, and even India. For the most part, they are genuinely good people. They are kind, generous, open and fun to hang out with. Most of them are also pretty into the late night party scene, which is great for them, but not really my thing. I miss having a circle of friends to talk with, go to a play with, and explore something with.  So, to all my lovely and wonderful friends in Washington, Idaho, and dotted about the globe, I miss you tons, even if you don't get a post on Facebook saying so. I genuinely long for some good company here, which I have found in my two good friends, but I need more of them. I will work on getting out more.

H is for Hagwons

First, I know it's been a while, sorry. These have been floating around my head for a bit, just haven't felt motivated to put them on the blog...so here goes.

I work at a hagwon here in South Korea. For those of you who don't know what they are, they are traditionally after school academies to help students further their interests in science, math, language, etc. From what I understand from people I've talked to who grew up in S. Korea, hagwons were scarce until recently. They were only an option for those who wanted to advance a bit in certain areas.

This seems to be in contrast to their current usage here in S. Korea. Now, some hogwans still offer assistance further skills in a specific subject areas, but there are also English language hagwons everywhere I turn here in Pohang. I imagine it is the same with most cities here in S. Korea. most of my students in my afternoon classes attend at least 2 hagwons each day after school. Plus they have a sport and a musical instrument that they play.

This means that S. Korean children of the middle and upper class spend about 12-14 hours a day in education related activities before going home. Then they have to do homework. I wonder if any of them get to sleep even 8 hours a night. which brings me to the point of why I wanted to talk about hagwons.

Hagwons originally started as a good idea, extra support for children who needed or wanted it. Now it seems to be an extended day care service for busy parents who want trophy children. The sad part is that, at least at the hagwon I work at, the system of education seems to be rote memorization and regurgitation on tests.  There is little room to teach critical thinking or intsill a love of learning.

So, you end up with worn out children, who have nervous breakdowns before their time. It's just not a good way to handle education. It pisses me off that a clueless Obama is heralding the S. Korean education system as an example to the US. The US is already well on its way to becoming like S. Korea with No Child Left Behind (NCLB).

Monday, January 10, 2011

G is for Garbage and Gifts

I have found that South Korea is a place of diverse feelings for me. I've really had a hate-love relationship with it since I got here. I hate the banking system here, the doctors, and the cold here. I love the culture, language, most of the food, the experience of being in a new place, teaching, and the new friends I have met here. How can one place hold such difficult and wonderful things all at once?

Perhaps a better question is how humanity is so like that, full of horror and miracles, cruelty and compassion, and dispair and hope. These things are almost always tied up in us; so closely knit together that from one moment to the next they seem to blend together. I will perhaps save further discussion of South Korean banking and humanity for another day, but today, I feel I could tackle garbage and gifts here in South Korea.

While most of developed South Korea seems a very organized and efficient waste reclaimation machine, my neighborhood is a bit different. Is there trash pick up here? Yes! Is there recycling? Absolutely! In Daegu, at the Costco, at my work, and in downtown Pohang there are recycle bins and garbages fairly regularly on the streets and in other places. The trouble comes with the odd garbage piles strewn about my neighborhood, which is newly developing.


In my neighborhood, the rubbish heaps mount high and the litter that is blown about is like wind strewn garbage-fetti. One factor that leads to this is the wind itself. Often people will put out neatly tied bags of refuse, only for it to fall victim to a dog, then the remaining contents get flung about by the impressive amount of wind that blows here in Jangsongdong. Koreans also seem to value the very new. To this end, much furniture also lies abandoned in lots around my apartment building. Once you look up past this refuse, you can see the beautiful trees and mountains that line the outskirts of my town. They are remarkable.


The really great part of this odd mix of refuse is that sometimes people throw out highly usable items, like my new couch. I have, more than once, thought that for as much garbage as I've walked through and past in South Korea, I've had as many gifts. I had a dream before I left for my new life here. In my dream there was a cupboard at my school where everything I needed to start my new life was held, and all I had to do was reach in and I would pull out anything I needed.

When I arrived at my apartment here, I had all that I needed. In my apartment was furniture, cooking utensils, some food, and toilet paper. I can't believe how good that felt. I thought, wow, this new life is so amazing. Already my dreams are coming true. So, I do need to thank the teacher who lived here before me and some other amazing people for lugging the furniture I now have up to my apartment. I think there are moments here when I let the challenges overshadow my joys.



So, to help me stay focused and to share some of the things I feel are so lovely about South Korea, here is a list of the things that I love about it so far:

  • Bulgogi
  • Galbi
  • Ori (duck--which is so much more delicious here)
  • Ori Gui
  • Ori kebabs
  • Cheesey rice (dak bokke with cheese)
  • Heated flooring
  • Hanbocks
  • Nice co-workers
  • Mandu
  • Duck bone soup
  • Je Yu Dop Bop
  • Lam Yen (ramen)
  • Korean (the language)
  • My students
  • Giant vegetables (which are so much more delicious here)
  • Jukdo market
  • Yogurt
  • Bananas
  • Asian pears (which are so much more delicious here)
  • Korean apples (which are so much more delicious here)
  • New friends
  • Feeling more grateful for the things I love about the States
  • Writing a blog
  • Learning more about myself
  • Seeing the world through the lense of another culture
  • Making money

Thursday, December 30, 2010

F is for Finding and Foreign

One of the most interesting things about living in a country where you know nothing is the act of finding. First, it is something rather simple, like finding your way from home to work and back, a meal, a smile to greet the day, or a new routine. My first weeks here have been a continual search for things that make life function. How do I use the transportaion? How do I grocery shop? How do I find a sense of comfort amidst a world that is foreign and discomfitting in so many ways?

There is really no doubt about it. I am the outsider here. Everything marks me as foreign to this interesting and complex country. My skin is a shockingly pale color, I have freckles in a world of flawless complexions, I have red hair, I'm tall and broad. Those are just the physical markings. The less visable differences include my lack of Korean, my  independant and forthright nature, and my big smile and merry laugh. These are all things that would make me stand out here if I were of the same physical make up as everyone around me.

This place seems so tight to me; like shoving myself in a box too small. I think this has helped me come to an epiphany. I realize, here, 6,600 miles from my last home, that I still have a great deal to master about myself. I need to gain greater mastery over my body, continue to grow in discipline over my mind, and let myself trust and be open to the world around me. So, I've decided, after all the other things that I've found here in Korea (including cheese, pizza, funky hot dogs, a lovely people, a fascinating culture, and a beautiful language) I would like to find my health and physical strength.

I think the biggest thing I have learned here so far is that I have amazing adventures and things to do in life but my body needs to be stronger to enable me to accomplish those things. Maybe having less mass on this earth will allow me to float a bit more. I used to think that I needed some cushion between myself and the outside world. But now I know that my mind and spirit are strong enough to protect me, my body just needs to be mobile enough to go where they want it to.

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

E is for Erasers and Extra Helpings

As a teacher, I get to see how a lot of students handle making mistakes. Some just scribble over their mistakes while others erase most of the error and write over it. Then there's the S. Korean student. They talk softly and carry big erasers. They use them constantly, because you are supposed to do everything in an exact way. If you don't, you start over. One of my students even has a foot long eraser rope. When she showed me, I thought, "Wow, can I get one of these for my life?"

They not only have big erasers here, but they have little eraser debri cleaners, made in the shapes of animals, which will sort of 'vacuum' up the nubbies of rubber that are left behind. S. Korea has to be the school supply capitol of the world, besides being the all things cute and shiny capitol. I do enjoy watching my students work away, erasing and rewriting. I think that we all would rather like to do that with moments of our lives. "Ooops, that wasn't right, let's try that again, shall we?"

It was Thanksgiving this week and I went to the army base nearby to celebrate with some teachers and soldiers. It was lovely. A little taste of home, especially because someone made candied yams! I had an extra helping. I wish there had been a turkey, but the chicken was delicious. Finding a turkey in S. Korea is rather like trying to find an icecube sunbathing in Hawaii. It's possible, but it's rare and gone in a hurry.

D is for Daegu and Doctors

So, this post should have been for the week before Thanksgiving. I've had it half written in my head since then, anyway. Here goes....

The Saturday before Thanksgiving I had to go to Gumi to attend an English as a Foreign Language Teacher seminar. I won't talk about that much because it was fairly useless. What was neat, however, was that I got to see some of the scenery of Korea out the bus window. It's pretty nice in the mountains. There are lots of farms along the way and the cities are tucked here and there among the mountains. I wish I had some pictures, but the bus was going too fast to get some as we went. I would really like to go to Gumi, or the mountains around it, in summer and take a hike.

The reason that going to Gumi is important is that it allowed my fellow teacher, Nathasha, and I to make a detour to Daegu on the way back. We took the train from Gumi to Daegu. The train station is massive and there are all kinds of stores in it. I decided to be adventurous as we watied for our train and try a Korean hotdog because I hadn't had breakfast yet. I got it with 'cheese' on top. It was rather like a cross between balogne and a Slim Jim with butter goo on top. So, I recommend not trying one if you're a fan of edible food.

The train ride to Daegu was fun. Getting on and off was a new experience for me. I can't believe how many people were there, waiting and crowding in. In S. Korea it's your job to move through lines as quickly and efficiently as possible, whether it's at the convenience store, grocery store, doctor's office, or train station.  When we got on, some other ladies were in our seats, but luckily someone helped us get it figured out. The train was fast and it was interesting to watch people juggle reading papers and working on laptops while precariously perched in aisles.

In Daegu, I realized just how big a city it is and how easy it would be to get completely lost. Natasha and I were on a mission though, so we stopped and asked for directions to Costco. Yes, they have Costco here in Korea! It's amazing! It took a bit of finding (directions, a map, a taxi ride, an aimless wander, and a kind stranger) to find the store. The design of the building is very unlike any you'd find in America. The parking garage is built from the mainfloor up and the shopping is actually below ground. We had to ride escalator ramps (pics below) down several floors just to get into the store. It is pretty similar to the Costcos in the States. They even have Costco pizza, which I ate, yum! I found out here that Korea even recycles compost, isn't that cool! When we cleaned up from our meal, all wastes went it seperate shoots. I think this is something the US could do too.

Costco was a land of delights. They have cheese--real, unadulterated cheese! They also have bacon,  Nature Valley granola bars and other exotic American goodies. I was in heaven! I will be going back there after the New Year. I miss cheese. Hopefully, next time I will have more time to spend exploring Daegu. I hear that there are Indian restaurants there. I hope they are as delicious as the Madhuban in Boise, Idaho.

Over these couple weeks I also got to have some more up close and personal encounters with doctors here in Korea. I've learned that they don't like to give you what you ask for, they want you to take what they think is best, even if you've been taking the other medicine for years with no side effects. It's very frustrating! I started having migraines again here, due to lack of sleep and stress, and it was a month long process to convince the doctors that I just needed a refill of what my nuerologist in the States gave me. Thankfully, I now have that medicine and my migraines are improving greatly. Other interesting things about doctors here is that they like to think they know everything. That's a lot like the States, but here they don't listen to what you are saying before they tell you you're wrong...lol.

Overall, though, the doctors do try to help, the service is inexpensive and the medication is also inexpensive. I'm looking forward to finding a dentist here and getting my teeth taken care of. Also, I've heard that laser surgery for your eyes is cheap here, so I will look into that too. I think I might miss glasses if I do though. Oh, well, I can still wear sunglasses. =)


One of the little farm hills outside Gumi.



Gumi, poking out of the hills of South Korea


Costco, and pizza....  =)



Costco, the underground shopping area



I got in the way of this line of carts taking this shot....I think that was very un-Korean of me. I think these escalator ramps are kind of cool. the wheels on the carts are magnets and they stick to the steel ramp belt.

Friday, November 12, 2010

Jet Lagged

This is a poem I wrote about how I've felt since I got here. It's outside of my normal posts, thus the non-alphabet related title.

Jet Lagged

Stock-still the heart beat,
Rapid the surrounding world,
Moment becomes eternity,
Instant stretches for days.

Last year, time was this-
A curry and comfort, a kiss-
None starting or ending,
One long, slow blending.

Now, it's a Korean taxi ride,
Don't know I'm still breathing
Until the halt, lurching
Me into the littered streets, bruised.